| There are two types of anchors or protection used in Rock Climbing: Active and Passive Protection. In general, Active Protection has moving parts, spring-loaded features and expands to fit a crack. On the other hand, Passive Protection has no moving portions and is usually connected to a wire or Sling.
Passive protection includes Slings, Hexes, Nuts, and Tricams.
Draws or Slings
Draws or Slings are used to carry gear if the gear loops on your Climbing Harness are not sufficient anymore. In addition, Slings are used as extenders.
Hexes
Hexes are sometimes difficult to place, but once they are placed, they are really safe. In addition, Hexes are lighter and cheaper than cams. Hexes are mainly used for large cracks and can be applied to the rock in a similar way to nuts, placing them in side ways at the back of a crack and then fiddling with them until they are secure.
Nuts
Nuts are cheap, light, and placements are common. Most leaders carry between 15 and 20 nuts. The idea behind nuts is that when you are climbing, you place the head of the nut into a crack in the rock. As a crack gets wider then further back, they go into the rock, which works out really well. So when you put the nut in and pull on it, it won't come out because the crack is narrower towards the surface of the rock.
Tricams
Tricams also belong to the family of cams. Tricams come in many different sizes and styles. To use them, roll its head back until it rests on the material. Keeping it in this position, place it into a wide crack and pull on the end of it until it tightens. This happens because as you pull on the end of it, the head tries to unravel from the material and expands (cams out) so it gets stuck. Take note that Tricams can be hard to remove. Moreover, they are quite hard to place if you are not experienced.
But aside from familiarizing yourself with each feature of your Passive Pro, it is also important to learn how to take care of it. Here are some pointers regarding your Passive Pros:
* After your Climb, make sure you wash your hexes and stoppers. Dry them thoroughly to prevent rusting.
* Have a regular checkup of your gear, especially before and after using them. Inspect for deformation, crack, chip or rust on your Pros. Retire these immediately to prevent further use.
* Store your Pros properly. Keep them in a clean and dry place which is out of direct sunlight. It must not be in direct contact with any corrosives.
* When in doubt, replace the gear immediately.
Extra protection for your Climbing Gear will be helpful for you in saving a lot of money and ensuring a safe Climb. A little effort is all you need, along with the knowledge of how each of its bits and pieces works and you’ll definitely do not need to worry about the reliability of your Passive Pros on your future Climbs. |
